Gremi Fortress in Georgia: Visiting Kakheti's former capital

Gremi sits on a rocky hill overlooking the Alazani Valley in the Kakheti region of eastern Georgia. During the 16th and 17th centuries, it served as the capital of the Kingdom of Kakheti. Today, the surviving architectural complex marks the site of a major regional centre that was largely destroyed by Persian invasions.

For travellers exploring the eastern part of the country, Gremi Fortress provides a direct look at the region’s royal history. The site consists of a working Orthodox church, a three-storey tower housing a state museum, and the expansive ruins of a trading town at the base of the hill.

The history of the Kakhetian capital

Gremi is situated within the Kvareli Municipality. The city was founded by King Levan, who ruled the Kingdom of Kakheti from 1520 to 1574. Under his rule, it functioned as the primary seat of power and a centre for regional trade.

The Persian armies of Shah Abbas I destroyed the city in 1615 or 1616. Following its destruction, the capital of Kakheti moved to Telavi in the mid-17th century.

How far is Gremi from Telavi?

It is approximately 20 km from Telavi (21.4 km by road), and the drive takes 20 to 25 minutes. For those travelling from the national capital, the distance from Tbilisi ranges from 115 km to 150 km, depending on whether your route passes through Telavi.

Our Old House is a guest house in the centre of Telavi. Reaching the complex from the property is straightforward:

By taxi A taxi from Telavi to Gremi costs between 15 and 20 GEL.

By marshrutka Shared minibuses (marshrutkas) travelling the Telavi–Kvareli route pass directly by the base of the fortress. The fare is 2 GEL.

Free parking is available at the base of the hill. From there, the walk to the citadel takes 5 to 7 minutes up a stone staircase.

The Gremi citadel and Church of the Archangels

The surviving complex includes the church, a three-storey palace that doubles as a bell tower, and defensive walls.

The Church of the Archangels Michael and Gabriel was built in 1565 during the reign of King Levan.

The interior of the church was painted with frescoes by 1577. A fresco on the south wall depicts King Levan holding a model of the church, and he is buried inside.

The complex features a secret underground tunnel that leads to the Intsoba River.

Inside the tower museum

Adjacent to the church is the three-storey palace and bell tower. The tower houses a museum operated by Georgia’s National Agency for Cultural Heritage Preservation. The stairway inside is steep and narrow.

The museum features two main exhibition halls: the King’s Hall and a hall detailing the history of the Gremi settlement.

Museum artefacts include:

• Bronze Age weapons
• 12th- and 13th-century iron axes
• 15th-century pottery

A 16th-century cannon is also on display.

The bell tower contains modern paintings of Kakhetian kings created by Levan Chogoshvili in 1985.

The trading town ruins

The ruins of the old trading town at the base of the hill cover approximately 40 to 50 hectares. The lower ruins include remnants of a caravanserai, royal baths, and a wine cellar with a press.

Practical details for your visit

Entrance fees

Entry to the church and surrounding grounds is free. Tower museum tickets cost:

• Adults: 10 GEL
• Georgian citizens, students, and pensioners: 1 GEL
• Guided tour in Georgian: 15 GEL
• Guided tour in a foreign language: 30 GEL

Opening hours

Official sources list the museum’s opening hours as either 10:00–17:00 or 11:00–18:00. The museum is closed on Mondays, but visitors can still access the grounds, viewing terraces, and church for free.

How long does a visit take?

A typical visit to the church, tower, and museum takes 30 to 45 minutes. Exploring the trading town ruins at the base extends the visit to about 1.5 hours.

Is there a dress code?

The Church of the Archangels is an active Georgian Orthodox parish with a strict dress code. Women must cover their heads and shoulders, and men must wear long trousers. Free wrap-around skirts and headscarves are provided at the entrance.

Photography is permitted, but using a flash inside the church is prohibited.